camino de santiago de compostela luxembourg

The idea of running the Camino de Santiago de Compostela in Luxembourg (180 km and 2,800 metres of altitude) non-stop was first conceived in 2020 during the coronavirus pandemic, when all my runs were cancelled. But something always got in the way, so my plan was postponed several times: curfew (not going out between 23:00-6:00), self-isolation, a pulled muscle after a run... 

But the end of September 2023 was the right moment. I just knew it and felt it. And above all: it was an incredible intense and emotional experience. 

Three weeks before, as every year, I took part in the Ultra Trail Mullerthal. The 112 kilometres were the perfect training for my plan to run the Camino de Santiago non-stop. I prepared everything in detail, went through each part of the route thoroughly and planned my breaks and refreshments. I also calculated my arrival times in advance. But they seemed a bit optimistic. However, I thought it would be possible somehow. I also combined my run with a fundraising project for ASA asbl, a non-profit organisation that sponsors and funds assistance dogs. 

I started the Camino de Santiago at 12 noon on 29 September in Lieler, the so called border triangle. First, I crossed the north of Luxembourg, with its pine trees and slate. Then I ran along the Our valley via Vianden, past the castle. A runner, Pierrot, joined me there for a while. The weather was mixed, and when it got dark, it also started to rain heavily. I took my first break after about 68 km at my home in Echternach. My partner Mike was waiting for me in the pedestrian zone, and I ran past the basilica. I was pretty soaked, so I had a hot shower, ate something and continued on the Mullerthal Trail towards the Jakobsberg, where ultra runner Claude was waiting for me in his camper. He was supposed to join me for the night, as I was a bit worried about being out all night alone. But a few days before the start, Claude told me that he had a bad cold and wouldn't be able to run with me. However, he accompanied me all night in the camper, waiting for me at certain points every 5-6 kilometres.

The whole night was characterized by heavy fog and a full moon, so I had to switch off my head torch as I couldn't see anything else. Apart from some glowing animal eyes, I didn't see much. And every now and then a startled owl would fly over my head. It was really scary. But I overcame my fears and just ran, through the forest, along seemingly endless field paths. I tried not to think about "Blair Witch Project" & Co. I have to admit that there were times when I was really scared. As I kept trying to get to the camper as quickly as possible, I put the pedal to the metal to make sure I stayed within my time limits.

When I arrived in Grevenmacher around midnight, at about 90 km, I was really tired and decided to lie down for half an hour. I didn't sleep, but I recovered a little. Then I continued over the Potaschberg through an industrial area where big trucks were parked and resting.  It was a bit like a horror movie scene, and when a truck suddenly pulled up behind me, I accelerated to get onto the cycle path quickly. I continued along endless country roads, past old empty farms and a slaughterhouse. It was always a good feeling to see the camper. It gave me a certain sense of security. 

At 6:00 I arrived at a car park in Syrdall, where I planned to take an hour's break in the camper. At 7am I met up with two runners who joined me for about three hours. As we ran through the city of Luxembourg, the sun came up, and the fog lifted. The time passed to Kockelscheuer, where Claude was waiting again with the camper, croissants and a café.

Then I continued on my own. At about 130 km, I was running through the woods in Bettenbourg and suddenly saw a familiar face that I couldn't immediately recognise. It was a colleague from work and somehow this coincidence gave me a boost of motivation and I was so happy to see someone. 

A few kilometres further on, I met another runner, Chantal, who joined me for a short distance. When I reached Dudelange after 146 km, I was in a real slump. I was struggling with fatigue and didn't know how to continue. I got myself some crisps and Coke and sat down on a bench. I found this area unpleasant. Suddenly the rubbish bin next to me started burning, someone had just thrown a cigarette in it. A shopkeeper ran out with a bowl of water and asked if anyone had already alerted the fire brigade.The whole scene was so unrealistic and bizarre. I got up again and just wanted to get out of there. 

Then I ran out of Dudelange and had to cross a stretch of motorway. It must have looked incredibly weird to the drivers. Then I continued through the Obel forest and I still was very tired. Chantal, who had accompanied me earlier, asked when I would be in Mondorf. At that point, I didn't know if I was going to make it anywhere. I was struggling. I listened to some music of Tom Waits that kept pushing me on... "You got to hold on, hold on" was on repeat. Then Chantal ran towards me again with an ice-cold spinach and mango smoothie. She had brought me some fruit earlier as I was having trouble eating. I was so happy to have Chantal with me and the smoothie was excellent. The spinach did the trick as I arrived a little early in Mondorf, where I was then accompanied by two very nice runners all the way to Schengen. 

It was also special for me to finally complete my first 100 miles. But it wasn't over yet, I still had over 18 km to go. It was really tough! But now I just wanted to finish. At the end, I fell into a calm, peaceful state - I just kept moving, step by step, on my aching feet. But even that was no longer a problem. My brother and my little nieces were waiting for me in Schengen. I was really looking forward to see them. Asa asbl was also there to welcome me in Schengen. 

I ran the Camino (180 km) in 31h45min and managed to stick to my schedule. But as I said before, it was just the right moment.

I would also like to thank all the lovely people who have supported me in my project, either through their company, messages during the run or donations.