Ultra Trail Mullerthal September 2019 (2018, 2017)

 

A short description of the Mullerthal Trail

 


 The UTML always takes place in September and leads through the Mullerthal, also known as "little luxembourgish Switzerland". Besides numerous, shorter trails and routes, the Mullerthal Trail consists of three main routes: route 1, 2 and 3, which are run at the UTML depending on the distance. The three routes together make 112 kilometers with about 2900 meters of altitude. This is also the longest distance of the UTML. The start is at midnight, so route 1 (approx. 38km) is run during the night. At 5 a.m. the starting signal is then given for the second longest distance - 75km with 1900 meters of altitude - which leads over routes 2 (approx. 38km) and 3 (approx. 37km). Then there is also a distance of 38km (route 2) and a 15km trail (part of route 2).
The three routes are partly very different, and that makes the Mullerthal Trail so much varied. Route 1 leads through small villages, across fields with wind turbines, but also through forests and rocky landscapes where, depending on the weather and rain, you have to cross a little stream  called the "Giischterbaach". A personal highlight of this route for me is the "Giischterklaus", a small village with just about 11 inhabitants. There is an old chapel with an old cemetery. The "Giischterklaus" is the oldest place of pilgrimage in Luxembourg. Another attraction is located in Rosport, a few kilometers away from the "Giischterklaus". Here you walk past the Tudor Castle, the former residence of the inventor of lead-acid battery, Henri Owen Tudor. Today the Tudor Museum is located there.

The second route is the most famous trail in the Mullerthal, it is characterized by spectacular rocky landscapes and gorges. The whole route is a highlight, so I can not list everything. But I will mention some special eye-catchers: Einsiedelei (rock painting from the 2nd World War), Daxelay, Eulenburg, Goldfralay, Schießentümpel, Predigtstuhl, Devil's Island in Berdorf, gorges in Berdorf, Pereskop, Wollefschlucht (see photos).

The third route is especially characterized by castles, this in Beaufort and in Larochette. But one also walks through stony rocky landscapes, surrounded by streams, as well as over seemingly endless prairies. Especially the Sonnenuhr and the Kallektuffquelle are the highlights of this route. Route 3 is my personal favorite route because of its variety.

 The Mullerthal Trail is a challenging trail because of its fairly irregular profile. It goes up and down a lot, and in between there are always uneven steps of sandstone to overcome. And of course there are many roots and stones.... just a wonderful trail! :-) Everything what the heart of a trail runner desires. I have already participated in the UTML three times, in 2017 and 2018 I ran the 75 distance, then in 2019 the 112 kilometers. Since I live right near the routes, I know the routes very well and also run them repeatedly in training. I also always look forward to the UTML because friends from Germany, whom I have met on various runs and with whom I am still in contact, travel there. So this run is also associated with a joyful reunion every time.

 

UTML 2019 - 112KM

 

When I went to the start of the 112 kilometers, I was lucky to run through a wonderful night illuminated by the full moon. I was most afraid of running alone at night through the Mullerthal, but it was just so nice and quiet and all the worries were for nothing. The UTML was my first run at night so I was very nervous going into the race. I ran slowly through the night and when I finished the first route after about 5 hours and I arrived at the first aid station after 38 kilometers, there were only a few runners behind me, some had given up.  I then immediately started on the second route, but at that point I had a mental down. Somehow my head did not play along at all, but I did not know exactly why. I even thought about getting off at the next aid station, but there was really no reason to do so. I was physically fine, but I was overcome by one negative thought after another. Actually, not a new phenomenon... as so often, the beginning of the run in particular causes me the most difficulties. Why this happens again and again is still not quite clear to me. However, I suspect that I often put myself under unnecessary pressure, have certain expectations of myself and compare myself too much with other runners. Fortunately, these negative thoughts disappear during the race and are replaced by positive and strong emotions, which I can definitely describe as magnificent.

The second aid station comes after another 22 kilometers, at kilometer 60 and is located at the Heringer Millen, where you run through twice (after 60 and after about 98km). The catering is excellent: homemade bread, cheese and ham from the region, fruit, and and and... the top op the top: in the year 2019 the runners were served by Mohamad Ahansal, 5-time winner of the Marathon des Sables, whom I have already met twice in some way at the UTML, either as a runner or as a volunteer. The second time I ran the 75km, I passed him, said "hello", but didn't recognize him. A friend of mine ran a long part of the distance with him, but she didn't know that it was Mohamad Ahansal until after the race. You don't expect to meet the famous desert runner in the Mullerthal ;-).

 But back to the 112km run. Arrived at Heringer Millen, I told the staff that my head was not really playing along. The UTML is also particularly characterized by the fact that experienced and passionate ultra runners are involved in the organization, so that they always find the right words. Here the answer was that someone who still looks so good, certainly can not just give up. That made sense to me :-). And so I decided to continue running, at least until the next aid station. The weather was perfect that day! Sunny, not too hot, just gorgeous. In addition, the trail between the Heringer Millen via Beaufort to Larochette is incredibly beautiful. Rocks, streams, the castle in Beaufort as well as the castle in Larochette can be admired.

 

The third aid station "an der Supp" is located a few kilometers behind Larochette at about kilometer 85. I arrived there a bit tired, but I was still fine, mentally already much better. I knew the volunteers at the Checkpoint, and seeing faces I know motivated me. Even though I was not allowed to sit in the too comfortable camping chair for my own good, otherwise every wish was fulfilled.... Filling the bottles, chocolate and even a few meters of company from a volunteer. What more could you wish :-). And so I kept running until at mile 88 when I thought I was having a hallucination. There was a man on a bike who looked exactly like my partner Mike. But he didn't announce anything like that. But it was him :-) That really cheered me up, and so I ran happily for the second time towards the aid station at the Heringer Millen.  And here I thought I was having another hallucination as I ran past two runners. But they were real too! They were actually the two Belgian runners from Portugal that I had met at the Trans Peneda-Gerês at the last aid station and who helped me at the end when my headlamp broke. Unbelievable! I was totally happy, feeling strong and in a good mood. At the Heringer Millen I took only the most necessary liquid. And just as I wanted to run on, the starting signal for the 15km distance was given. I waited until the very fast runners were over and ran on at my snail's pace, with already 97km in my legs. The following kilometers are characterized by a lot of ups and downs and the typical rocky landscapes until the village of Berdorf, where the last aid station is waiting. I always call this part of the route Jurassic World, because the nature reminds me of the forest from the film, an absolute green... even the rocks and stones are green. I fell into a strange state of mind at that point, which I found to be particularly peaceful. Totally turned inward, I was still aware of the outside world, but my consciousness was altered. I wasn't able to think logically, but I didn't want to think at all, nothing cared anymore and the whole "normal" world seemed so far away. I was simply there, moving forward. And that was all I wanted. Actually I didn't want anything more, I didn't think about it either. I only felt the movement, the ground, the breathing, all this in a very harmonious rhythm. I was in a kind of trance.

 Then, when I reached the last aid station, there were other runners of the 112km distance. You could see the exhaustion on their faces as well. Some complained about leg pain. And then I suddenly became wide awake and said to myself, now you run faster through the last 6 kilometers to the finish line! And that's what I did.  My quadriceps didn't feel totally fresh either, but I repeated like a mantra that leg pain was just a myth after almost 100km :-) If I stood over it now and acted as if I had just started, my legs would act in that way and still be able to run as fast. I was in an incredible runners high by now, I even think I was giving screams of joy at times. 2km before the finish line I met a group of runners of the 15km distance (from Belgium), and they looked at me totally amazed, because I was in such a good mood after the 110km. They thought it was so funny and decided to accompany me to the finish line. They stopped the cars on the road so I could cross it, and in the pedestrian zone before the finish they clapped and asked the people in the street and sitting at the cafes to clap along: "Here comes the queen of the Mullerthal". It was a bit embarrassing, totally surreal but also funny. And so, after 17 hours and 10 minutes, I crossed the finish line with my unknown companions, where Mike and my best friend were waiting for me. I was totally happy. And I was actually not that tired :-)